On the map

 I sent my map off to John Lamsley - he worked for Emerald for 15 years and has recently branched out on his own (Facebook group), so he knows his stuff.

He sent me back an updated map to try help with the hot-starting and it is better, although still not perfect - Zedster needs 2 or 3 cranking sessions to start when hot (but at least he does).

I have the feeling my starter motor is utter junk - it wasn't the cheapest to buy but not premium either. After much online reading about hot-starting issues (a common problem), an explanation for the lethargy of my starter motor became clear. When it is cold, it is ok but when it gets hot, it is a higher resistive load for the battery to turn, which is why it sounds half-dead when hot-starting. I guess that might be considered the battery (although it is new) or just the fact the starter motor is getting too susceptible to heat? There is an expensive brand of starter motor which has the condenser fitted internally, so it is supposed to be much less affected by heat.

Also, even when cold and it is spinning ok, just before the engine fires, the starter grinds to a halt. The engine then fires on the next crank. So the starter motor is being stopped by the engine compression or something?

I think I should cough up for  a decent starter motor...

Admittedly, none of this accounts for why the engine won't fire when hot. The map changes seem to have helped but they shouldn't be needed. Hot-start issues seem to mostly be an older-car issue where engine heat caused fuel to vaporise in the fuel lines (vapour lock). With an electric HP pump and swirl pot in the engine bay, subject to the heat, this could be my issue but why is it happening now, with the car 3 years old?

Another problem could be a leak, lowering fuel pressure but I cannot see or smell that. Maybe I should get a fuel pressure gauge installed and see if that is low? But then wouldn't that affect the engine running as well, not just starting?

Questions, questions....